Our first attempt at cruising.

We picked up the keys for the boat Friday 5th October 2001. I went to the mooring just to check out the boat ready for our first trip Saturday. One of the strip lights in the forward cabin was not working when we went to look at the boat prior to buying so I knew this had to be repaired/replaced. I also knew that water had got into the engine room from when the work was done on the boat and that all the mud from the workers boots need to be washed off. On the Friday all I did was mop out the engine room and check the security of the boat.

We took mops and buckets on Saturday and washed the boat. I bought two new strip lights for the forward cabin as I could not find a match for the faulty one these were £19.95 each but were much better to look at than the old ones.

I checked all the fluids on the engine and we set off for Thorne to Blue Water to fill up with diesel.

One thing I have discovered from reading various sites is that you cannot handle a narrowboat without centre lines. There were 2 ropes on QE2 for this purpose. The previous owner tied them to the roof rails half way along. This is a good place as far as I can tell as it is better for controlling the boat in locks. The ropes should be brought back along the boat to a point where you can reach them from the steering position. With the ropes like this you can just grab the one you need, jump off the boat and secure it. This is very handy for quick tie ups for bridges etc. The centre rope will hold the boat fine while you go off and open the bridge etc. It is of course far better if a member of the crew can be persuaded to go off and open the bridge, set the lock, etc. Leaving you to carry on through as soon as the bridge  or lock gates are open.

A couple of other things that are worth mentioning which may not seem obvious. Regulations say there should be 2 exits from the boat so if there is an external padlock on the front doors it should be unlocked before setting off. If there is a life belt put it outside. If someone falls in it is no good having to scramble down to the accommodation to get it.

When using the canals, in general you should travel on the right hand side of the canal. Boats coming the other way will expect to pass to your left. Exactly opposite to the roads. If you wish to pass/overtake another boat you should pass them on their left. If you are in a narrower channel of the sides are shallow then aim to sail down the centre, but be aware of boats coming the other way and be prepared to make room for them to pass.

Slow down when passing moored boats so that your wash does not knock them about on their moorings.

In all things caution should be the by-word and if you are not sure then slow down.

Lifebelt and both centre ropes running down to the steering position

Actually steering the boat is not too difficult whilst cruising, although you do need to be vigilant a boat will soon get well off course if you let your mind wander for even a short time. Narowboats when turning usually pivot at some point about 1/3 of the way from the front (bow) whereas a car pivots on it's rear wheels. This has to be taken into account when cruising. For instance if you are at your mooring it is no good simply going into forward gear and attempting to steer away from the bank. All that will happen is that the stern of the boat will hit the bank and be dragged along it.

I find the easiest way to get off the bank is to push the back of the boat out as I get on. I then go gently into reverse so that the boat comes away from the bank and off I go.

Another method which is quicker is to push the bow of the boat out. Because the boat pivots this will tend to push the stern into the bank (so dont worry you will still be able to get back on) then as I get on the stern give her a push off as I get on. Taking care not to fall in.

ONE POINT WORTH A MENTION IS THAT WHEN FIRST STARTING OUT START YOUR ENGINE BEFORE UNTYING THE BOAT. HOW EMBARRASSING WOULD IT BE TO BE DRIFTING DOWN THE CANAL DESPERATELY TRYING TO START YOUR ENGINE.

There are 2 locks and 2 swing bridges between Bramwith and Thorne travelling in this direction you are going down through both locks. Going down through a lock is much easier then going up as there is little or no turbulence in the lock as it empties. I had little to do as we shared the locks with other boats and their crew operated the paddles and gates I just sort of sat there! Although this was easy it did not give me much experience. As I was not doing much I was first out of the lock and so arrived at the first swing bridge ahead of the others. This is an electrically operated bridge across a road. On these bridges there is a control box in which you insert your Waterways key there are only 3 controls "open" "close" and "emergency stop". Not really challenging then! In fact Jenny happily went off and swung the bridge.

Of course at all of these obstacles you have to stop and tie up the boat. I have found that for me the easiest was to do this is to point the boat at the point you want to stop and about 150yds from this point take the engine to tick over as I approach the point I take off all power. At this point the boat is hardly moving but on QE2 the rudder still has an effect so as the front of the boat gets quite close to the bank I push the rudder over to bring her straight alongside. If I get it right I can just jump off with the centre rope and tie her to a bollard. If I'm going too fast as I approach I just put her into reverse with hardly any power on just to slow her. This method takes a while but I'm sure as I get more confident/skilled I will be able to do it quicker.

One thing to bear in mind which can actually be useful is that when a prop starts to turn it has, for a short time, an effect on the direction of the boat. On QE2 when put into reverse it tends to pull the stern to the right. So, if I'm mooring up on the right side of the canal I can come into the side with the bow closer to the bank and then engage reverse. This slows the boat and brings the stern to the bank.

However, when mooring on the left hand side this has to be taken into account. If the bank is approached a bit too fast then engaging reverse to slow her will tend to pull the stern away from the bank. A technique I've been trying out, sometimes with great success and others not so, is to put her into the bank bow first and just before the bow hits the bank put the rudder hard over and give her some revs in forward. This uses the pivot point to push the bow away from the bank and the stern in. Care has to be taken to not give too much power just enough to turn her.

The object of the exercise is to get the boat in a position where you can get off with the centre line, get to a bollard, take a turn on the bollard and the boat still be somewhere near where you left it.

More